More photos from this beautiful riverside town can be seen on my Flickr site.
Uncertainly at Waterlogged Lakeside
PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA – Flooding is a problem which characterises the Cambodian capital. During the wet season, the short but powerful downpours dump more rain on Phnom Penh than the rubbish-clogged drains can handle, and the streets become shallow rivers for a few hours after the rain. Jokes are made of the surf conditions on Street 63.
However, the residents in the city’s Daun Penh district, in which Beoung Kak lake sits, have been copping it worse than many in recent years
On February 6 2007 the government leased the lake for 99 years to Shukaku, Inc., a holding company headed by Cambodian People’s Party senator Lao Meng Kinh. The lake has been leased to the company for 99 years at a price of US$0.60¢ per square meter, or a total value of US$79 million, per year.
Shortly after the signing, the company began dredging the nearby Tonle Sap river and using the sand to fill the lake in. The lake acted as a natural reservoir for the city during the monsoon season and did much to prevent flooding in the area.
Since well over 70% of the lake no longer exists, and is awaiting the construction of luxury apartments and shopping centres on the reclaimed soil, this reservoir no longer exists, and so residents and businesses along the edge of the lake are now flooding out.
I took these photos on August 23 2010, and when I awoke this morning I saw that the waters are rising even moreso due to last night’s rain. This has been going on for four days now. At least one house in the neighbouhood became so waterlogged that it collapsed. Two guesthouses are completely empty, prospective tenants understandably reluctant to wade through shin-deep mucky water to reach their rooms.


The story around the Lakeside district is the same; construction will start in a year, and landowners will be given US$8000 as compensation and forced to move, often up to 20 kilometers away. Thousands of families along the lake’s (former) south and west shore have already been moved on.
Most people face an uncertain future, with plans for their eventual fate taking on the air of rumour. Some think the Lakeside district along Street 93 will remain unchanged, some are expecting the bulldozers to come in as soon as the high-rise condos go up. Many have nowhere else to go, having build their homes and businesses and lives in the area.
The project has been controversial from day one, with complaints ranging from the view being spoiled to entire communes collapsing into the rising waters. There have been recent rumours of the foreign investment companies that had initially signed on for the development getting cold feet due to the Global Financial Crisis and putting their plans on-hold indefinitely.
Regardless of whether the construction goes ahead or not, the damage has been done. The backpackers have lost their beautiful sunset view, thousands of families have lost their homes, and Phnom Penh has lost a part of it’s history.



Phnom Penh From Above
All Aboard The Battambang Bamboo Express
BATTAMBANG, CAMBODIA – With the upgrade of the rail line which runs between Battambang and Phnom Penh, a testament to Cambodian ingenuity will soon come to an end.
The bamboo train, a homebrew rail service that provides transport between many of the villages around Battambang, is scheduled to be stopped next month.
The villagers took it upon themselves to get around the problem of transporting goods and people by taking over the disused rail track running through the villages. A group of people began building their own platforms made of bamboo and wood, attaching wheels from old tanks, and running them along the track.
Previously, these bamboo platforms were powered by someone using a pole to push it along the track. These days, locomotion is provided by a small 5 horsepower motor connected to the rear set of wheels by a fan belt.

The bamboo train (each vehicle known locally as a “norry”) moves not-so-smoothly along the dilapidated track at up to 40 km/h. Locals use the norrys to transport livestock and grain to market, or to their homes. It’s become quite a tourist attraction, with visitors enjoying the scenic ride as well.

Given the number of norrys travelling on the single line, a system of etiquette has arisen when two norrys travelling in the opposite direction meet.
The norry with a lighter load is picked up off the track o the heavier-laden norry can continue on. The pilot of the more loaded norry helps to take the lighter one off the track and put it back on again.

Despite the stretch of track (which goes all the way to Phnom Penh) being one of few sections of rail to survive the Khmer Rouge regime, it’s in very shoddy shape. Much of the track is warped, and the joins are so rough that running over them can be a boneshaking experience. Until November 2008, there was a proper train service between Phnom Penh and Battambang. However, the track is in such disrepair that the 275 kilometer journey could take up to 14 hours. A slow train indeed. The service has been cancelled, probably because of the disintegration of the track, but also due to the impending repair work that will allow regular trains to run at a more regular speed.
Unfortunately for the villagers around Battambang, such progress will mean and end to their ad hoc transport system. A small norry construction industry has sprung up, and there are numerous small stores along parts of the track that act as rest stops for norry passengers and their drivers.

Oun and his wife Sem run one such stall about 7 kilometers from “norry central”, where most visitors catch the bamboo train. They offer shade and cool refreshments to travellers.
Given the highly unofficial status of the bamboo railway, it’s inevitable in a way that it would one day finish. However, it’s sad to see something this unique (not to mention useful to the local people as well as providing jobs for many) come to an end.
Isabelle & Sonny

My Photo in the Financial Times
Earlier this month the photographic editor of the Financial Times contacted me and asked if she could use the below shot in a feature about the changing face of Phnom Penh.
Of course, I said yes, and forwarded on an untouched version of the image for their use.
The piece was published both online and in print yesterday.
Bangkok Dangerous
BANGKOK, THAILAND – Attempts to move around central Bangkok are frustrating, what with the main Red Shirt encampment covering a fair part of Rama I Road from near the end of Sukhumvit Road, directly under the Skytrain west of Ploen Chit station.

Thai soldiers deployed through the streets of Bangkok.

The Red Shirt barricade of bamboo and razor wire blocking off Rama I Road at Ploen Chit.

An eerily empty Witthayu Road near central Bangkok

A monk approaches Red Shirt protesters on Ratchaparop Road

Red Shirt barricades on Ratchaparop Road

Rubble litters Ratchaparop Road

Red Shirt protester

Life goes on amid the pandemonium

Red Shirt protesters armed with sticks and pieces of concrete move back from the barricade between them and Thai military forces

Red Shirt protester

Red Shirt protester

Red Shirt protester

The Thai Army heading back to barracks

Smoke from burning tyres fills the sky above Bangkok

Smoke from burning tyres fills the sky above Bangkok
When this was a prison…
PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA – I did make a promise to never take photos at Tuol Sleng or Cheoung Ek, the sites of so much horror during the reign of the Khmer Rouge (one of many similar sites scattered all around the country). Sometimes you just have to get the shot. I can’t explain my change of heart. But I still don’t think I’ve sold out the memory of the 3 million Cambodians who died due to the policies of Angkar, the government of Democratic Kampuchea.
Therefore, I offer the following shots without further comment.













